What originated as a niche tool in the grimy caves of Rifle, Colorado and collapsing basalt of Jailhouse, California is now a quickly spreading tactic. The rubber kneepad is taking over climbing. We are the first to admit that there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a kneepad. But we argue that the kneepad changes climbing movement. And, often, not for the better.
Our movement is to encourage climbers to forego the rubber kneepad. And take a higher grade if appropriate. Sure, many routes will feel harder without a kneepad. But you might discover surprising benefits of freeing your knee:
You will build actual forearm fitness since you won't get 10 no hand rests on your route.
You will avoid the dreaded muffin top and excessive thigh sweat.
What's at stake:
Free the knee movement has lost many a warrior over the past few years. A notable no knee warrior Alex Megos now straps 2 rubber pads on. Unless we speak up, the full-body sticky rubber condom will be a common part of the kit in a few years.